Oil costs rose dramatically in 2022. That’s not simply the extensively tracked barrel of crude. The price of olive oil, a quite extra area of interest commodity, has additionally spiked. That’s the pits for Islington households in search of one thing to drizzle on their endive — and a worrying signal of issues to come back.
The worth rise has been sharp. Final December, additional virgin oil — the costliest variety, comprised of cold-pressed olives — touched €5.5 per litre in Italy. That’s up 50 per cent in comparison with the earlier yr, and is about double the value in 2020. Different olive oils have elevated much more.
Olive oil is a staple in producing nations — nonna’s pasta sauce is swimming within the stuff. And the rising recognition of the Mediterranean weight loss plan has elevated olive oil consumption globally: it’s up twofold since 1990.

However the spike is just not pushed by liberal use of oil. It’s the provide that has withered. Juicy olives are the product of temperate climate and a few rainfall. A scorching summer time in Italy and Spain — the 2 largest producers — has triggered European manufacturing to fall 34 per cent, in response to estimates by the European Fee.
The worth enhance goes to chew. That’s not a lot of a problem for customers within the UK and US, the place olive oil continues to be a distinct segment — and elite — product. Per capita consumption is only one litre a yr there. Nonetheless, Spaniards, Italians and Greeks guzzle 10 litres a head. By this reckoning, a household of 4 that likes additional virgin olive oil would possibly spend some €220 a yr. They now have incentive to change to cheaper oils, if just for cooking.

Corporations that promote olive oil could also be squeezed too, as they battle to cross on the value enhance to customers. CVC-controlled Deoleo, the main olive oil producer globally with manufacturers together with Carapelli and Bertolli, emerged from a debt restructuring in 2020. Its ebit margin is about to fall to three.15 per cent of revenues in 2023, in response to S&P Capital IQ estimates, down from 5.4 per cent in 2021.
Olive harvests have good years and dangerous years. However the concern is that scorching Mediterranean summers would possibly turn out to be extra frequent as local weather change advances. That might add pricier olive oil to the record of penalties — and spell dangerous information for the salad days of Islington.
If you’re a subscriber and want to obtain alerts when Lex articles are printed, simply click on the button “Add to myFT”, which seems on the high of this web page above the headline.